SOUFRIE

Our hosts have lived on Montserrat for many years. They used to live in the capital Plymouth and also had a beach bar on the south west side of the island. In 1995 their lives changed dramatically. Following a devastating hurricane in 1989, Mount Soufrie, resident volcano decided to erupt. It was a massive eruption. A population of 12,000 was reduced, almost overnight to 3,000. The town of Plymouth was buried under 30 feet of ash as was the golf course and beaches. People were evacuated, a million dollars was marooned inside the vault of Barclays Bank only to be 'rescued' by a gang of determined yet hapless thieves some years later. The lava flowed in torrents down the side of Soufrie and a huge mushroom cloud rose into the air, whilst above it the lightening arced and slashed at the darkening skies. Day turned to night as red hot boulders were cast to the heavens.

The Golf Course

Shirley and Lou remember these times clearly, as if it was yesterday it all happened. The beach upon which their bar stood was buried and destroyed. They had to evacuate their house as did many people, never to return. Much of this now lies in the Forbidden Zone, a fence marks the boundary. From the observatory, Plymouth, grey and lifeless, the once proud town, looks for all like a modern day Pompeii which of course that is exactly what it is. A three year cycle prevents any attempt to colonize the Bad Lands and some say that until the bones of ancient indigenous Indians, removed from their shallow graves, are returned to their resting place, the eruptions will continue.

The devastation is quite shocking, yet the islanders continue with their lives in the shadow of the volcano which, ironically provides some of them with a much needed livelihood. Although no-one is allowed into the Zone, one can get as close as to be too close, should something ever happen again, but the town of Plymouth is off limits, entombed, perhaps to be excavated at a later date. As you can imagine a lot of mythology and magic surrounds us here on Montserrat. Shirley, lady of the house regails us with countless tales of mysterious goings on and happenings together with advice on how to deal with people who trouble you, how to ward off spirits who would do you a disservice, how to entice the opposite kind of spirits and the places on the island you really would not want to spend a night, no matter how brave you might talk in the daylight hours!

Church and house

Speaking of this, we visited an interesting hotel yesterday. On the wrought iron gate its name 'Overston House' does not give a clue as to its origin unless of course you are a real Beatles fan. For Overston House was the home of George Martin and is in fact still owned by him. Once inside this beautiful building set in sculpted gardens the first thing you notice are photos of John Lennon and Paul McCartney, taken and signed by Linda McCartney hanging on the wall along a long corridor. These are accompanied by other photos she took on the island. Given that Air Studios, were also built by Martin and now lay derelict in the Zone, (once hosting such groups as The Beatles and The Stones), it can be see that Martin had a love for this island which exists to the current day. And did I feel a temptation to remove just one of these signed, framed photos? Of course not. I don't want to be a name in someone's shoe!

A three story house

Lou and Shirley's beach bar

Nature fights back

George's Place

Lennon